We used
to go to Chihuahua, Mexico, several times a year, driving our own car. Since we have come back to El Paso, we find
that the effort to make that trip is much more difficult than it used to be. And, that is not just because we are
older. No, ever since 9/11, the entire
process has become tiresome, bothersome, and downright stressful. Where once we just needed to gather together
everyone's birth certificates, fill up the tank, and stop at the bridge of
choice to get permits, now we must have a passport in order to even get back
into the U. S., and we need to pay for personal permits, the car permit, buy
Mexico Auto Insurance, anticipate paying tolls at least twice (for very poorly
maintained roads), and deal with Mexican immigration, the Mexican Military
(there is at least one military checkpoint on the road), and then deal with CBP
Gestapo upon our return to the U. S. border.
So, we
have been making our now rare trips to Chihuahua by bus since our return to
this area, and even that is becoming very stressful and bothersome. In order to avoid having to go to either the
Central Bus Station in Cd. Juarez, or the one in Chihuahua itself, we have been
traveling by El Paso Los Angeles Limousine Express, Inc. This is really a Mexican company that -
somehow - is able to operate in the U. S.
They offer "service" to (as their name implies) Los Angeles,
from El Paso, as well as to a long list of locations in both Mexico and the
Southwestern U. S. You can see the full
list of places here: http://eplalimo.com/index_files/Locations.htm. They do serve way more U. S. locations than
Mexican, by the way. They have a small,
but really dirty and primitive, terminal in downtown El Paso, and their buses can easily go across the border via the Stanton Street Bridge, and then, after
dealing with Mexican Immigration, they proceed to Chihuahua, bypassing
the Juarez bus station.
None of
their buses are new, nor do any of them give the appearance of good maintenance. No Wifi, no bathrooms onboard, no amenities
other than spotty air conditioning, and occasional movies in Spanish. It costs about eight dollars more per ticket
to travel from El Paso, to Chihuahua, than it does to travel from Chihuahua, to
El Paso. I have no idea why. If you buy tickets in Mexico, to any
destination they serve, they offer serious discounts for Senior citizens,
Teachers, children, and students, with proper identification. (Mexico, by the way, issues special ID's to
senior citizens, that entitle them to a multitude of very real discounts all
over the nation, up to fifty per cent off the cost of regular goods and
services). Unfortunately, however, U. S.
citizens are not offered, nor allowed any discounts, wherever they purchase, or
travel. So, our cost from El Paso, to
Chihuahua, was $39.00 each. Our return
tickets, from Chihuahua, however, only cost us $610 Pesos ($31.72, at today's
rate).
We just
returned from a weekend trip to Chihuahua, yesterday afternoon. We left here Friday morning, at around 9:00
AM. (We were supposed to leave at
7:45AM, but it was around 8:05-10, before we moved out of the little terminal,
and started across the bridge, to Juarez.
Once across the bridge, as per usual, the bus had to stop for Mexican
Customs and Immigration, and everybody got off, with their luggage. Those who were not Mexican citizens proceeded
into the building to request and obtain visitor permits, at a cost now of $553 Pesos
($28.76) per person. These are good for
six months. I should point out that this was not
an anticipated expense for the trip, because the last time we went to
Chihuahua, there was no charge for a permit for three days. (They keep changing their system). The Mexican Immigration guy was seriously
stressed dealing with those of us who entered the building on Friday morning,
so the process took longer than it should, and was accompanied with all kinds
of conflicting directives from him to all of us.
So, by
the time we all had our permits and were back on the bus ready to go, it was
after nine o'clock. There was still
another stop on the highway out of town, and then off to the "30 kilometro," where Mexican Customs and Immigration has a checkpoint. Fortunately, that was not a real stop, but
just a tiny pause, and we were finally on our way.
By the
time we got to Villa Ahumada, about one third of the way to Chihuahua, we were
seriously behind schedule. The bus
drivers or the company obviously have a deal with a restaurant along the
highway, just before the first toll booth for use of that highway, because they
now stop at "Parador Villa," a very greasy spoon. This is a good opportunity to use the
bathroom, and grab a quick bite to eat, and buses have long stopped along the
way, in or near the town of Villa Ahumada, so one would think that this location
is not a problem. It is a problem,
however, when you consider that the menu is not only very limited, but very
misleading, and the prices are worse than tourist prices. A bag of salted peanuts and a bag of potato
chips cost me $60.00Pesos ($3.12), with the manufacturer's price on those peanuts
clearly saying that they should only cost about fifty cents, American. The most common burritos around those parts
have long been "carne desebrada," or shredded beef. Properly done, these will come with either
green chile, or red chile, and usually chopped up onions and tomatoes, as
well. Parador Villa's menu offers both
kinds, but makes no mention of the fact that the burrito you get is mostly
diced potatoes, which have no place on a meat burrito.
The
driver, meanwhile, parked the bus and announced a twenty minute stop. Nearly forty five minutes passed before we
got back on the road. Much later, just as we finally
approached the second and last toll booth, only some thirty kilometers shy of
our destination, he pulled off the road, to the left side, turning the
bus completely around so that it was facing back towards Juarez, or away from our destination. Another bus driver, from a parked bus, got on
and spoke to our driver for a couple of minutes. Then, our driver announced that that other
bus, from Chihuahua, to Juarez, had broken down, and we were on the only bus
available that could make the trip all the way back to Juarez. So, we had to get off, remove all of our
luggage, and wait for another bus to come from Chihuahua to pick us up and
carry us the remaining thirty kilometers into town. We waited in the hot sun for about ten or
fifteen minutes, until a much older bus pulled up. This thing proved to lack air conditioning,
and, we quickly learned, had a transmission problem (the driver could not get
it to go into second gear without a lot of grinding). We did eventually (nearly three hours behind
schedule) get to the Chihuahua terminal, where nothing was ever said by anyone
connected with the bus company about why they would treat paying customers so
shabbily.
Personally,
I was surprised that none of the passengers spoke out against this
treatment. I mean, a number of us
questioned why this was happening at the time, but the driver just ignored us. Ultimately, I wish there was an alternative to taking that bus, but the cost of using our own car is pretty steep, so I guess we're stuck with this kind of treatment, as they obviously know very well. All I can say is be careful, and be prepared for all kinds of unpleasantness if you are ever thinking of using this bus line.
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